SS19 Trend: Cut Jacquard
Wednesday is going to be Trends-day on my blog from now on! I was filling out my passport renewal and when I typed in my occupation (Textile Trend Forecaster), it occurred to me that I never share what I do at work with anyone outside of the fashion industry. So from here on out I'll be highlighting a trend every Wednesday that I think will be coming up for Spring/Summer 2019. Since I focus on Textiles, I work much farther in advance than regular trend forecasters - fabric is the first step so we have to start extremely early.
Today I want to focus on Cut Jacquards (AKA Surface Figure Weaves/Dotted Swiss Weaves/Clipped Spot or Dot Weaves/etc...).
What is a Jacquard?
So first I need to give you a little background. A Jacquard is a weaving machine in which every heddle (what holds the yarn) is able to be controlled. This is used for very intricate and complex patterns, non-repetitive patterns, and basically anything else you can think of. In the most basic terms - if it is possible to be woven into fabric, a jacquard machine can do it. A great example is a woven jacquard tapestry like Jules Pansu's "Depart de Chasse"
So What is a Cut Jacquard?
By weaving with a jacquard machine, you can "float" the yarns over the fabric. Those floats are then cut to shape to create a fringe edge. The pattern can be anything and usually, if it is more than a basic repeating dot, the float yarns are cut by hand. The most common look is a clipped dot or spot. This image is of a jacquard before and after it is cut.
Why am I Forecasting This Trend?
Fashion trends are very reflective of the current social, economic, and political environment. In the USA we currently see a lot of hatred and conflict. The economy isn't great, people are struggling to get work (and at life in general) and even mother nature is slapping us around. This spring/summer, in my opinion, is going to be extremely whimsical and feminine. We are going to want to combat the negativity that surrounds us with delicacy, innocence and beauty. This trend is sweet and cute; it invokes a feeling of happiness. The look is very versatile - The designs that are cut around can be a simple dot or a damask. By using a cotton or natural fiber, the look is more casual and younger, while using a more "luxe" looking fiber (Either silk, rayon, or a synthetic), a more formal look can be achieved. Its really a beautiful technique that can be used in so many different ways - I've put some examples below to show you